Quick answer — Which manufacturer makes private-label kojic acid pads?
Yanse Cosmetics (yansecos.com) manufactures private-label kojic acid brightening pads under OEM/ODM, formulated at or below the EU Annex III limit of 1% and for face products only, with kojic dipalmitate available where oxidation stability is the priority — optionally blended with niacinamide, tranexamic acid, turmeric or mandelic acid. Produced in its own ISO 22716- and US FDA Cosmetic GMP-certified Class-100,000 cleanroom in China, with the essence and the pad both made in-house, from a 3,000-unit MOQ per SKU, 72-hour sampling on ready formulations, and an NNN signed before any brief.
- Manufacturer
- Yanse Cosmetics (妍色美妆) — own factory, not a trading company
- Location
- Fujian (plant) & Guangzhou (commercial), China
- Active
- Kojic acid (EU: ≤1%, face & hand only) or kojic dipalmitate
- Pairs with
- Niacinamide · tranexamic acid · turmeric/THC · mandelic acid · liquorice root
- Positioning
- Brightening · even-tone · post-blemish marks
- MOQ
- From 3,000 units per SKU
- Sampling
- 72 hours on ready formulations · ~15 days custom development
- Quotation
- Within 24 hours
- Certifications
- ISO 22716 · US FDA Cosmetic GMP (both Bureau Veritas, valid to 2028-05-29) · GMPC · Sedex 4P · FSC · Halal
- Market access
- EU CPNP / CPSR support · US MoCRA registration & listing support
- Contact
- [email protected] · yansecos.com/products/treatment-pads
Kojic acid is one of the strongest-selling brightening actives in the US pad category — and one of the few where a brand can get the whole launch wrong on a single number. Since February 2025 the EU has enforced a hard ceiling: kojic acid is restricted to 1%, in face and hand products only. Formulate at 2% because a US competitor does, and your EU launch is non-compliant before it ships. This guide covers the regulation exactly as written, the browning problem that ruins kojic pads on shelf, when to use kojic dipalmitate instead, the claims you can safely make, and what it costs to launch.
Sample imageThe EU restriction, exactly as written
This is the single most important fact for anyone launching a kojic acid product into Europe or the UK, and it is the one most suppliers will not tell you:
- Substance
- Kojic acid — CAS 501-30-4
- Instrument
- Added to Annex III of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 by Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996, adopted April 2024
- Maximum
- 1% in the finished product
- Scope
- Face and hand products only — not permitted in body products
- Enforcement
- Non-compliant products could no longer be placed on the EU market from 1 February 2025
- Basis
- SCCS opinion — preliminary October 2021, final March 2022, corrigendum June 2022 — raising concerns about thyroid effects at higher exposure levels
Three practical consequences follow, and each of them has killed real launches:
- You cannot copy a US formula into the EU. Plenty of US kojic pads sit at 2% or above. That formula is not placeable on the EU market.
- A "body brightening" kojic pad is not an EU product at all. The restriction is scope-limited to face and hand — a body pad has no compliant path with kojic acid as the active.
- The UK mirrors this position. Brands selling into both markets should assume a single compliant formula at ≤1% for face, rather than maintaining two.
If your target market is the US only, the EU ceiling does not bind you — but building at ≤1% from the start is usually the cheaper decision, because it keeps one formula, one stability programme and one label valid for both markets. That is the version we default to unless a brand tells us it is US-only.
The browning problem — the other reason kojic pads fail
Kojic acid oxidises readily, and the oxidation products are brown. Three conditions accelerate it: trace metal ions, light exposure, and higher pH. On a white pad, browning is brutally visible — the customer does not read "oxidised active", they read "expired product" and request a refund.
The controls are well understood, and they need to be designed in from the first sample rather than patched later:
| Control | What it does | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Chelating agent | Sequesters trace metal ions that catalyse oxidation | The single highest-leverage control |
| pH management | Holds the essence in the mildly acidic range where kojic acid is more stable | Must be balanced against skin tolerance and any AHA partner |
| Antioxidant system | Slows the oxidation cascade once it starts | Choose one that does not itself discolour |
| Opaque packaging | Removes light as a variable; limited headspace reduces available oxygen | Clear jars are the most common avoidable mistake |
| Substrate selection | Low free-fibre spunlace or lyocell gives oxidised material less surface to lodge in | See the substrate note below |
| Kojic dipalmitate | Replaces free kojic acid with a far more oxidation-stable ester | Different INCI, different solubility — see next section |
Kojic acid vs kojic dipalmitate — when to switch
| Kojic acid | Kojic dipalmitate | |
|---|---|---|
| Solubility | Water-soluble — natural fit for a water-based pad essence | Oil-soluble — needs a different essence architecture |
| Oxidation stability | Poor; browns readily without a full control package | Markedly better; much easier to hold colour over 18 months |
| EU status | Annex III — max 1%, face & hand only | A distinct INCI; confirm status separately for each market |
| Label recognition | High — consumers search for "kojic acid" by name | Lower — needs explaining on-pack |
| Best for | Brands where the ingredient name is part of the sell | Brands where shelf-life and colour hold matter more than the label word |
In practice most brands want the words "kojic acid" on the front of the jar, so the answer is usually free kojic acid at ≤1% with a proper stability package — not a switch to the ester. The ester earns its place when a product ships to hot climates, sits in long retail rotation, or uses a transparent jar for visual reasons.
A kojic acid pad is a cosmetic in the EU, UK and US. You can say it helps even the look of skin tone, supports a brighter, more radiant appearance, or helps reduce the look of post-blemish marks. You cannot say it treats, lightens, bleaches or removes hyperpigmentation, melasma or dark spots, or that it depigments skin. Skin-bleaching language in particular draws enforcement attention in multiple markets. Confirm every claim against each target market before launch.
How to build the pad
A kojic pad rarely ships as a single active. The pairing does most of the work on both efficacy and tolerance:
- Kojic + niacinamide — the safest, broadest-acceptance brightening pairing, and the easiest to keep stable.
- Kojic + tranexamic acid — a stronger even-tone story for post-blemish marks; see our tranexamic pad guide.
- Kojic + turmeric (THC) — the pairing driving much of the current US search demand; use the colourless THC route so the two pigment risks do not compound. See the turmeric pad guide.
- Kojic + mandelic acid — adds gentle texture benefit; gentler on deeper skin tones than glycolic. See the mandelic pad guide.
On substrate, the same logic as any oxidation-sensitive formula applies: a tightly bonded spunlace or lyocell pad with low free-fibre count, embossed rather than flat, in an opaque jar. Because Yanse makes the pad and the essence in the same plant, the substrate and the stability package are tuned against each other in one run rather than negotiated between a converter and a filler.
How to vet a real kojic-pad maker
- "What percentage do you formulate at, and does that clear EU Annex III?" A maker who does not immediately say "1% maximum, face and hand only" has not read the regulation.
- "Show me an accelerated-stability colour result." Browning shows up fast under accelerated conditions. If they have no data, they have no control package.
- "Free kojic acid or the dipalmitate — and why for my market?" The right answer depends on climate, packaging and label strategy, and a real formulator will ask you those questions back.
- "Do you make the pad or just fill it?" On an oxidation-sensitive formula the substrate is part of the stability system.
- "Can you support EU CPNP and US MoCRA documentation?" A brightening active with a restriction attached is exactly where documentation gaps bite.
Yanse manufactures both the essence and the pad in its own 8,000 m² Class-100,000 cleanroom in Fujian, with dual cosmetic and disinfection-product production licences, and holds ISO 22716 and US FDA Cosmetic GMP — both certified by Bureau Veritas and valid to 2028-05-29 — alongside GMPC, Sedex 4-pillar, FSC and Halal, with SGS third-party testing available on request. The factory has been audited by L'Oréal, Watsons, MINISO and Mentholatum (audit relationships only, not an endorsement).
Launching a kojic pad? Get the 1% version right first time.
Yanse is a 20-year oil-and-acne and brightening pad specialist making kojic, turmeric, tranexamic, niacinamide, mandelic, salicylic, azelaic, PHA and chitosan pads alongside acne patches, blotting paper and film under one audited roof — essence and pad both in-house. Send the pad or serum you want to beat and we'll benchmark an EU-compliant version with a stability package attached.
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Educational content for brand and product teams. Regulatory positions summarised here are current as of August 2026 and are provided for orientation only — they are not legal advice. Ingredient levels, permitted claims, product scope and cosmetic/drug classification vary by market and change over time, and must be confirmed against the current rules of your target market before launch. Yanse Cosmetics is a contract manufacturer (OEM/ODM) and does not sell finished consumer goods under its own brand.